Golden Gate Fiber Institute

The theme for the Winter 2009 retreat is The Movement of Thread. It is our hope that the classes offered will invigorate your fiber arts with a new understanding of the ways threads move and how that movement translates into cloth and structure.

Each student will have the opportunity to take 1 class from Track A and 1 class from Track B. Each class will meet 3 hours a day for 6 days OR for this one time only we are offering a very special opportunity! Track C is a 6 day intensive weaving class with Takako Ueki.

No need to sketch, graph, draw, or use your computer. Just get right to the knitting. Simply imagine a shape, then fill in the space of that imagined shape with color and small geometrics, assembling as you go to make the garment of your dreams.

Learn to stack and re-order traditional shapes—triangles, rectangles, squares and circles—in ways that yield an endless number of visual surfaces, all ideal for sweaters, skirts, jackets, gloves, hats or scarves. Also learn to see your work as it takes shape—to “read” your knit surface as it grows and to pay attention to the relationship between the ways you stack your shapes and the movement of the cloth. This in turn will help you make and alter design decisions without decreasing and, in some cases, without casting on or binding off.

This class will encourage you to be bold and brave, fun and colorful. We will view images of my process and works in progress, and will discuss finishing the cloth.

The nature of cloth is created in a spinner’s hands. Will it felt? Will it full? Will it define or contort a pattern? Will it have motion? In this workshop we’ll explore how the color, surface and structure of the cloth can be shifted and manipulated by how the yarn is spun. We’ll spin a variety of yarns including yarns formed by using alternate twists, overenergized spinning, and differential shrinkage. We’ll explore how these yarns work in both woven and knit structures including crammed and spaced warps and knitted lace structures. You’ll need basic knitting skills but no previous weaving experience is required. (looms will be pre-warped).

Prerequisite: A basic working knowledge of your spinning wheel and the ability to spin a thread/single.

Silk is a truly spectacular fiber. Working with filament silk is unlike any ordinary kind of spinning - the fiber comes coated with special glue, and the staple length can be over a kilometer! We will start with reeling the filament from cocoons, and work our way through the whole silk process, including throwing (twisting), degumming, and dyeing, to yield a high-shine soft yarn called "tram," perfect for

filling weft, brocading, and embroidery. Instead of a heddled loom, we will use weaving tablets to design and weave ribbons of 2/30's spun silk, brocaded using the hand-made tram. You can see examples of my work at: www.wormspit.com - look under "silk work" for the silk processing, and under "projects" for tablet weaving.

Prerequisite: None

Have a style you would like to create in your mind's eye? This class will give you the tools to translate your vision into clothing you want to wear. Using this image as a guideline, we will create patterns suitable for knitters, weavers, crocheters and sewers.

We will also explore how to adapt commercial patterns to fit your unique vision/size/shape.

We will spend time analyzing commercially available patterns and how they can be adapted for a flattering fit. Through exercises and individual consultations, students will explore color, materials and textures and how to use them effectively.

Everybody will leave class with a customized pattern and with the skills and techniques for using it.

Fused silk “paper” is a delightfully versatile technique of creating fabric without spinning, weaving, knitting or felting the fibers first. Fibers are held together with textile and acrylic gels and mediums, making a permanent bond. In this class, you will be creating this unique fabric from a variety of fibers including: dyed silk top, hankies, caps, noil, thrown waste, mohair locks, wool blends, ribbons, and yarns of all types. You will learn both flat and dimensional techniques that can be cut, sewn and embellished into book covers and pages, purses or amulet bags, boxes, wall hangings, hats, etc., or shaped into 3-dimensional light fixtures, vases, or candle holders. Fused silk is a wonderful canvas for a variety of embellishment techniques, such as both machine and hand embroidery, beadwork, printing, stenciling and other surface design. A comprehensive, illustrated notebook is provided with step-by-step instructions, patterns, and embellishment techniques and details. Basics of hand and machine embroidery will be covered.

Weaving Light and Air between Threads

with Takako Ueki

Students will be introduced to one of the most ancient and unusual yarns - a hand-tied and twisted ramie called karamushi. We will learn how to create this yarn from the raw material to finished yarn and learn to weave with it as weft. Students will also learn how to reel, wind and warp extra fine silk. Using this as a warp, we will weave in plain structure and explore the possibility of creating extreme sheer fabric with karamushi and many other unique materials such as stainless steel, horse hair, bamboo, crepe, etc. This will be a 6 day class. Students registering for this class will take ONLY this class. Class size is extremely limited so please sign up early.